Please review the important pre installation Instructions page by clicking THIS LINK or by clicking the green check mark to the left.
1.0 Relax, take your time. You will find this process easy and straight forward.
Simply follow the step by step instructions below. Please do not make the mistake of skipping a step.
FOR REFERENCE PURPOSE ONLY; Directly below is a schematic showing the positioning of all tubing in a fully set up system. Please read the instructions step by step. The install is straight forward but reading through each step is crucial to completing your install properly in the least amount of time possible.
The installation should take between 45mins and 1 hr and when all is set up you will have ultra pure, healthy drinking water for the health and enjoyment of you and your loved ones.
2.0 Take everything out of the box.
Examine the contents of the Large and Small parts bag against the photos below. If any pieces are missing, check the box, sometimes the pieces can fall out of their bags during the systems journey to you.
3.0 Remove the protective plastic from the prefilters.
Inside each of the three prefilter canisters you will find a prefilter with protective plastic for quality assurance purposes.
Paying close attention to how the filter is sitting inside the prefilter housing, remove the plastic and then reinsert the prefilter the same way the prefilter was taken out. Do this one at a time.
Now, using the Large Canister Wrench from the large Parts Bag, tighten each of the prefilters with reasonable force in order to seal the filters into place.
4.0 Inserting the R.O Membrane.
The R.O Membrane is shipped sealed for freshness. Remove the R.O. Membrane from its sealed plastic bag and insert the membrane firmly into the R.O. Housing (see Fig 3). It can only go in one way, the end with the two small o-rings is to be inserted first.
When you are certain the Reverse Osmosis Membrane is firmly in place screw the R.O Membrane Housing Cap back into its place (Fig 4) and then tighten with reasonable force using the Small Canister Wrench from the Large Parts Bag.
(Please remember that any picture in the instructions can be clicked on to enlarge the image for a closer look)
4.1 Inserting the Prefilter Elbow Adaptors.
Using two of the Elbow Adaptors from the Small Parts Bag, screw one of them into the “IN” (left) side of the three pre-filters (Fig. 5) and the other into the “OUT” (right) side of the three pre-filters (Fig 6). Please note that it is recommended to use Teflon tape on each Elbow Adaptors to prevent against any possible leaks.
5.0 Preparing the Feed Water to your system
Found under your sink are the water supply shut off valves to your hot and cold water lines. You will need to SHUT OFF the cold water valve. Run the hot water for 30 seconds and then feel which line under your sink is warm. SHUT OFF the opposite water line – since that will be the cold water line. After this valve is off, turn on your sink’s cold water tap to make sure there is NO cold water flowing from your kitchen sink faucet. If you shut the valve off correctly, there should be no cold water flowing.
5.1 Installing the Needle Piecing saddle Clamp to the cold water line.
DO NOT ATTEMPT TO INSTALL YOUR WATER FILTER SYSTEM TO BRAIDED TUBE PLUMBING (Fig. 7).
You can install the needle piercing saddle clamp to all other forms of cold water lines found under the common sink, just not the kind of plumbing depicted in Fig 7. The braided plumbing in Fig 7 is too soft a material and will therefore not allow for the proper seal needed.
Rotate the horizontal bar of the needle piercing valve to the left as you do not want to pierce your cold water line at this stage. Next, Clamp your cold water line TIGHTLY using the needle piercing saddle clamp which can be found in your Large Parts Bag. ( Fig. 8 )
Be sure to install above your sinks shut off valve. DO NOT ATTACH TO THE HOT WATER PIPE—AS HOT WATER WILL DAMAGE THE FILTERS WITHIN YOUR SYSTEM.
DO NOT PIERCE THE COLD WATER LINE AT THIS STAGE !
5.2 Connecting the feed water line to your system.
Next, take the 4 Inch piece of Red Tube from the Small Parts Bag and insert it into the Elbow; “IN” (Left) side of the prefilters (Fig. 9), then take the Manual Shut Off Valve, also found in the Small Parts Bag, and attach it to the other end of the Red Tube (Fig. 10).
Make sure to FIRMLY push the tubing into the various fittings throughout this installation.
Now Insert the needle piecing saddle clamps tubing into the other side of the Manual Shut Off valve completing the feed water line pathway to your filtration system.
5.3 Piercing the cold water line
Ensuring the Needle Piecing Saddle Clamp is firmly in place, screw down the needle of the saddle clamp using the horizontal bar on top of the clamp.
Note: You will feel resistance when the needle is piercing the cold water line, so pay attention to the amount of resistance experienced. This resistance will stop when you have successfully pierced the cold water line. After the cold water line has been pierced, turn the horizontal bar on the top of the clamp counter clockwise until it becomes snug.
5.4 Flushing of the Prefilters
Found in your Large Parts bag is a coiled length of Blue Tubing. Uncoil the tubing and insert one end into the Elbow, “OUT” (Right Side) of the prefilters and the other side into your kitchen sink.
This will allow for the water to flow through the three prefilters and then into your kitchen sink, flushing out any and all loose particulates and thereby preventing these initial loose particulates from reaching the 4th stage (Reverse Osmosis Membrane) ensuring maximum life span of the Reverse Osmosis Membrane.
5.5 Initiating the prefilter flush
You can now turn your under sink water supply shut off valve to your cold water line back to its “ON” position.
Please note: By turning this valve back ON you are allowing for the flow of cold water to the system. The systems three prefilters will then fill with water which will come out of the blue tube that is placed in your kitchen sink.
Allow the water to run through your system for 20 minutes to ensure proper flushing of the three prefilters.
After the 20 Minute prefilter flush, turn the Manual Shut Off Valve (see Fig: 10 above) to its horizontal position as this will stop the flow of water to your system.
Next, remove the Blue tubing that you have inserted into the “OUT” (Right Side) of the prefilters that you have used to flush the three prefilters.
To remove tubing from any point on your system simply follow this diagram (Fig. 11)
You can easily remove the tubing from any fitting on your system by removing the Blue “C” Clip which will expose the “Collet”.. Then simply push in the Collet so that it is flush with the fitting and then pull out the tubing.
In the future, be sure to depressurize your system before removing tubing from any fitting on your system. To Depressurize your system you simply need to turn the manual Shut Off Valve to its Horizontal Position, then turn your Tank Top Valve on the water Holding Tank to the Horizontal Position and then press down on your faucet. Depressurizing your system is extremely easy and takes just seconds.
NOTE: At this stage of the installation you have not yet installed the Water Holding Tank or the Faucet and therefore by simply turning the Manual Shut Off Valve to its Horizontal Position, you have successfully depressurized the system and you can remove the blue tubing from the “OUT” (Right Side) of the prefilters.
6.0 R.O Membrane feed water line hook-up.
Take the short white water line connected to the “IN” side of the 4 way Auto Shut-off Valve (ASV) on the top of the unit and insert it into the “OUT” (Right Side) of the pre-filters. Remember to insert the tubing firmly.
6.1 Prefilter to Reverse Osmosis Membrane Housing Hook-up.
Next, take the short white line connected to the “OUT” side of the 4 way Auto Shut-off Valve (ASV) on the top of the unit and insert it into the Elbow Adaptor on the cap of the R.O. Membrane housing (left side of Reverse Osmosis Membrane Housing) (Fig 12)
7.0 Setting the Flow Restriction Ratios of your System.
Using the same Blue tubing used to flush the pre-filters, insert one end of the blue tubing into the E – Z Flush Flow Restictor as seen in the below picture indicated by the Arrow. After you have inserted the Blue Tubing into the E – Z Flush Flow Restrictor, insert the other end of the blue tubing into your kitchen sink. The water that will flow through your E-Z Flush Flow Restrictor is referred to as “BRINE” water and will discharge into your drain washing away the harmful particulates removed by the RO Membrane.
Next, get a bowl or a bucket and place it under the short piece of blue tubing that is coming out of the Auto Shut Off Valve (ASV), which can also be seen in the picture above. The water that will flow out of the short piece of blue tubing that is coming out of the (ASV) is the purified water produced by the RO Membrane and is referred to as “PERMEATE” water.
Now, turn the dial on top of the E – Z Flush Flow Restrictor clockwise (Right), entirely closing the Valve of the E-Z Flush Flow Restrictor and then turn the Manual Shut Off Valve (Fig.11) found on the Feed Water supply line of your system to its “ON” Position.
Within a moment PERMEATE water will begin to flow out of the short blue piece of tubing coming out of the Auto Shut Off Valve (ASV), at the rate of a very fast drip to a slow trickle. Air inside the RO Membrane will be forced out of the membrane causing the fast drip or slow trickle to sputter with the air escaping. Wait 2-3 minutes for the air to fully purge so that a steady output is achieved from the RO Membrane.
Next, carefully open the dial on-top of the E-Z flush Flow restrictor counter clockwise (left) VERY SLOWLY until the amount of BRINE water flowing through the E-Z Flush Flow Restrictor is flowing THREE TIMES FASTER than that of the PERMEATE water flow coming out of the RO Membrane. In this way you achieve a 3:1 ratio where 3 parts is BRINE water and 1 part is PERMEATE water.
When you are confident that you have properly set the flow ratios as explained above locate the “marker sleeve” which is found directly under the top dial of E-Z flush flow restrictor. Screw this marker sleeve down the threads of the shaft of the dial so that it is flush with the main body of the E-Z Flush Flow Restrictor. This will serve as an exacting marker to the amount of flow restriction you have set. Now turn the Manual Shut off Valve back to its (OFF) position and Remove the blue tubing from the E -Z Flush Flow Restrictor.
PLEASE NOTE: The 3:1 ratio depicted above can easily be achieved by visually judging the rate of the BRINE / PERMEATE flows. However if you want to achieve exacting ratios between brine and permeate water you can simply time how long it takes to fill a certain volume such as a measuring cup or the like. When doing this “timed measurement” the permeate water should take three times as long to fill the same volume over that of the brine water (3:1 Ratio). We do not recommend anything over a 1:1 ratio as it is extremely important for the RO Membrane to have adequate BRINE flow to be able to flush away the harmful particulates it is removing while filtering the water.
A RATIO BEYOND 1:1 IS VERY LIKELY TO DAMAGE THE RO MEMBRANE, YOU SHOULD ALWAYS HAVE MORE BRINE WATER FLOW THEN PERMEATE WATER FLOW.
When setup is complete, rest assured that your system is designed to be fully automatic. When the storage tank for your system is full, the Auto Shut off Valve will activate which will cease all flow of water through your system. When you take purified water from your system the Auto Shut off Valve will trigger the flow of water once again throughout your system until your the holding tank is once again full where it will then activate to shut off the flow of water. This cycle will repeat every time you take water from your system for your convenience and in this way discharge water will only flow when the system is producing the purified water you desire.
8.0 Installing the Final Polishing Filter stage
Push two Canister Clips (larger end of the clips) onto the R.O housing.
Attach the Polishing Filter to the Canister Clips by pushing the Polishing Filter down onto the clips. Ensure that the writing on the Polishing filter is upside down (CLICK TO ENLARGE PICTURE BELOW)
Insert the “T” Adaptor into the left side of the polishing filter and the “Straight Male” Adaptor into the Right side.
Next, Insert the short blue hose connected to the “OUT” side of the 4 way ASV (Automatic Shut Off Valve) and push it into the “T” Adaptor on the left side of the Polishing Filter.
PLEASE NOTE: The reason for inserting the Final Polishing with the text upside down is so the Blue hose will easily reach the “T” adaptor. You will notice an arrow engraved on the polishing filter which indicates the direction of flow. The “T” adaptor should always be inserted on the opposite side of the polishing filter to which the arrow is pointing. In this way water will flow from the water Storage Tank, through your Final Polishing Filter, then to your Aquasafe Faucet every time you take water from the system. Your water is always Polished just before it comes out the Aquasafe faucet every time you take water from your new Water filtration System.
(Please remember that any picture in the instructions can be clicked on to enlarge the image for a closer look)
9.0 Prepare the Tank
The tank has an air bladder and a water bladder inside it. It comes pre-set from the factory at 7 PSI. Changes to the tank PSI setting may cause harmful back pressure. Do not attempt to adjust the air pressure of your water storage tank. The tank can stand up or lay horizontal.
Screw the tank top valve onto the threads found on top of the Water Storage Tank (Fig. 21). This is a plastic to metal fitting. We recommend 4-5 wraps of Teflon Tape.
PLEASE NOTE: The length of Blue tubing used to flush your prefilters is the tubing you will use to hook up the water storage Tank as well as your Reverse Osmosis Faucet line. You will need to cut this length in two pieces accordingly. The length of tubing used to hook up your faucet from the right side of the Final Polishing Filter will probably need to be longer then the length of blue tubing used to hook up your water storage tank, which will be hooked up to the Left side of the Final Polishing Filter. Take a moment and judge how much tubing you will need for each purpose based upon where the final placement of your system will be located under your sink (or the like) and then cut the length of blue tubing to accommodate your measurements.
Push the white plastic Compression Nut over one end of the cut length of blue tubing exposing 1/2″ of the tubing. Push the exposed end of the blue tubing into the tank top valve and hand tighten the Compression nut tightly all the way until snug.
Now insert the other end of the length of blue tubing into the “T” Adaptor previously installed on the left Final Polishing Filter (see Fig: 19).
10.0 Clear the Decks.
The next step is to totally clean out under your sink. Get some rags to wipe up any water drips from installing your system.
Now, step back and look at where you want the unit and the tank positioned. Please remember, you have to service the system so consider accessibility.
TIP: Stand the unit inside a drip pan. Disposable aluminum baking sheets work fine. We suggest this because you may have water drips while servicing the system or when you change out filters.
11.0 Preparing the Discharge Water Saddle Clamp.
Find a location on the discharge pipe under your sink where you wish to secure the discharge water saddle clamp. Make sure—LIKE MAKE REALLY SURE — that the location you have chosen is above the trap ! (The trap is the “U” shaped part of the drain pipe) You may secure the saddle clamp on a horizontal pipe JUST AS LONG AS YOU ARE ABOVE THE TRAP!!! Also try to secure the saddle clamp where it will not block anything, like where you want to put the your system or the Water Storage Tank.
Drill out your chosen spot with a 1/4″ drill bit. The 1/4″ hole that you drill into the carefully chosen location on your drain pipe is where the yellow drain line tubing will be inserted into and secured into place with the Discharge water Line Saddle Clamp as seen below.
Now take the gasket that came with your Large Parts Bag and remove the backing. Then stick the gasket to the inside of the saddle clamp making sure that the yellow tubing is showing through at least 1/2 inch.
Now secure the saddle clamp in its chosen location firmly. Then attach the other end of the yellow discharge line to the E- Z Flush Flow Restrictor on the back of the unit.
12.0 Installing the Faucet.
Installing the faucet is next. You will most likely be installing the faucet through the sink top or beside the sink top. Below are 4 different types of sinks. Follow the instructions for your sink type. If you have a porcelain sink, we advise against an amateur installation. Either find another spot or get a Pro.
a) Laminate: the most common material is a laminated counter top. Find choose the most appropriate spot on top, then crawl under and see where it clears. Remember, you have a large plastic washer to put under the counter. The safe thing to do is to drill a pilot hole with your smallest bit first. Then drill a ½ inch hole and assemble the faucet (refer to diagram below). The rubber gasket goes under the chrome faucet and the plastic washer goes under the counter. After putting the plastic washer in place, put on the lock washer and then tighten the nut. Either have someone hold the faucet or put a wrench on it and secure the wrench to prevent it from turning while you tighten the nut. Be careful not to damage the faucet surface.
b) Stainless Steel: Do the same as for laminate, except be really sure of your clearance space. Take a metal punch (or a big nail) and give the magic spot a good hit. At this indentation drill a pilot hole. A wood drill will not do it. You must use a metal drill bit suitable for stainless. Once the pilot hole is made, follow up with a ½” hole and attach the faucet.
c) Marble or Granite: This is not that hard, but takes some time You need a diamond tipped drill and about 15-20 minutes. The price of a ½” diamond tipped drill is around $75.00. Since you will probably never use it again, you would probably be better off either renting the equipment or calling in a Pro. Most glass installers have diamond drills and all vendors of stone have them. Some will rent it out, as will “Rent-All” stores. Start the hole by drilling a ½” hole in a piece of scrap wood. This will serve as a guide. Hold the piece of wood and let the diamond drill bit do the work. DO NOT push down or apply pressure. Keep the hole filled with water and wipe out the hole often. It is important to let the weight of the drill be the pressure and to let it just grind away at its own pace (which is slow).
d) Wood: If you have a wood counter top you could of course drill out the hole just beside the sink. Also please keep in mind that you could run the 1/4 ” tubing to a location nearby your system.
Faucet diagram for further reference.
Follow the schematic above. Use the other length of blue tubing for the Aquasafe Faucet Installation that was cut in two pieces during step 9.0 as seen above.
When you have your Aquasafe Faucet firmly in place in the chosen location, insert the hose leading from the faucet into the Straight Male Adaptor on the Right side of the Polishing Filter.
Check over all of the steps. Make sure all of your tubing is inserted Firmly into the various Adaptors.
Congratulation on completing the installation process. You may now turn the Manual shut off valve back to its “ON” position in order to start producing the ultra purified drinking water you desire for the health and enjoyment of you and your loved ones.
Your 3.2 Gallon water storage tank will now begin filling. Once the tank has filled, empty all the water out of the water holding tank and refill. The post carbon filter and the tank’s water bladder should be flushed out before drinking the water. Empty two full tank fulls of water in order to ensure proper flushing of your entire system.
After emptying your water storage tank twice, allow your system to pressurize. Monitor closely for potential leaks. If leaks do occur, turn the Manual Shut Off Valve attached to the 4 inch piece of red tubing to its “OFF” position. The nature of water is to find the path of least resistance. Some initial small leaks are not unheard of. If a leak occurs at any time please see Aquasafe’s LEAKS PREVENTION SECTION.
GET A GOOD FLASHLIGHT AND CHECK OVER THE ENTIRE SYSTEM CAREFULLY WHEN COMPLETED.
If you require further clarification after going through all of the information on the above instructions pages please feel free to email Aquasafe for further support at: firstname.lastname@example.org
Did you purchase the Home II Combo System? Please see below for information on how to use and store all of your extras.
Where do I install the PSI Meter from my “COMBO” System?
If you have purchased the Home II System Combo, your system has come with a PSI Meter as seen in the above picture. It is not necessary that the PSI Meter be installed onto your system. The PSI Meter is provided as a convenience to you as your entire system operates from water pressure. The PSI Meter allows you to determine the water pressure at any point on your Reverse Osmosis System which can make trouble shooting of any potential problems on your system extremely easy.
However there are two main area’s where installing the PSI Meter on your system can be of use if you wish to install the PSI Meter into your system.
- If you are on a well water system and you think you may have lower then 50PSI throughout your homes plumbing, a good place to install the psi meter in on the feed water line to your Reverse Osmosis System. This will allow for the easy monitoring of the source water pressure entering your Reverse Osmosis System.
- Installing the psi meter on the blue water production line (Fig 14) will allow you to monitor the water pressure of the purified water that has passed through the Reverse Osmosis Membrane. This can be useful, as when the R.O Membrane becomes clogged over time due to the contaminants it is removing the water pressure output from the blue water production line will decrease accordingly.
How do I use the TDS Meter from My “COMBO” System?
The TDS meter of your system is extremely easy and intuitive to use. First you will need to get a small glass and rinse it of all dust or other particles. Now fill the rinsed glass with the water you would like to determine the TDS Reading (Total Dissolved Solids). Now remove the black cap from the bottom of the TDS meter and then turn the switch found at the top to its “ON” position. Now simply insert the portion of the TDS Meter that was covered by the black cap into the glass of water. The number that shows on the digital display is the PPM count (Parts Per Million) of TDS (Total dissolved solids) in your water. REMEMBER TO SHUT OFF THE TDS METER WHEN YOU ARE DONE TESTING YOUR WATER !
PLEASE NOTE: When testing the water produced by your system it is important to note that the final polishing filter will add the mineral Charcoal back into your purified water which will increase the PPM count displayed by the TDS Meter. The Final Polishing Filter will add a higher PPM count to the water at the start of its life and decrease its output of charcoal released into the water as its lifespan of 1500 Gallons diminishes. The amount of PPM the final Polishing filter will add can range from 15-70. Testing the water held in your water storage tank will give you the PPM count of the water your system is producing before it goes through the final polishing filter.
How do I store my extra 21 (6 changes) of pre & Post filters?
Your case of 21 pre & Post filters (6 full changes) can be stored in the same state in which they arrived. Each prefilter comes wrapped in protective plastic. Store at room temperature. Shelf life is years.